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GLAMSPAMFANTASIA

starring:
The Night Queen aka KaTYa
Macho Soft aka RicharD
The Blink Tailor aka Johnhn
The Smooth Operator aka KellY
The Real Macho aka HannaH
The Rolling Glam Broch aka NaTT
The banGBang aka ArRiane
The Shade Shot aka Deniss
The Resonance aka POUpoute
The multitwister aka Errrenah
MARAKUJA Kigali by Night

"My first time was ordinary and casual. Boring almost. So ordinary that I can’t tell you where I was exactly. Some regular place, maybe even somewhere fancy like Mille Collines, or Republika. It was good, I’m sure: I would probably remember it better if it had been bad. But the first time I remember exactly and vividly was at the back of a car in Nyamirambo. The car in itself is a story: “the limo.” There was no passenger seat in the front so it was quite spacious and comfortable. I was with a friend and her husband and they had brought me there to explore. Discover the wonder. And god, was it good. Delicious. Small but quite tasty. All with a chapatti and a drink. Before living in Kigali, I’d never been a big fan of it. I liked it but I didn’t do it very often. It was more like a summer thing, something you do by the poolside. Or in the pool, if you’re bold. But here in Kigali, it feels like it’s always a good time for it, any day, any hour. I became an addict. As recently as yesterday night at the Le Must, I discovered a new way to do it. A new opportunity. I had seen this guy walk around the crowd and I was wondering what his deal was. When he walked near us, my friend hissed at him and he stopped. With a move of her finger, she told him “come here.” As he came closer, I understood what she wanted. She reached for it, pulled it from under the aluminum covering the plate, and bit in it. All this time, she never stopped dancing. She offered it to the group, a hand seized the wooden stick and it traveled to a new pair of lips. Then it was offered again. More lips. When it was my turn, I brought it to my lips and felt the heat of the pilipili on the meat. I took a bite, hard work: it was not very tender. By the time I passed it on, my friend had taken another one, and another one again, just as the guy seemed to be leaving - as if she couldn’t resist the temptation of one more brochette."

KigaliA green island surrounded by even greener waves of mountains.

In the night, from place to place

 sizzling clouds rise up in the air determined to tease your humble senses. Not a chance for those senses to stay humble when these upcoming storms of flavors invade your nostrils shamelessly.

You are hooked. Hypnotized you follow the source of the fire and just after hardly swallowing your yet not satisfied desire you ask for it. You MUST have what everyone has. You need to taste what fills up the air.

Just look how these master chefs paint with charming flavors each side of this temptation. Kings of the night?! The Muchomas,

masters of Nyama Choma. They are the ones to hold the secrets of the most wanted after-hours attraction 

– The brochette.

They do this everyday, every night, some for generations. In front of the faya throne.

On the street, in the restaurants, they can do it at your home

with just two basic tools: a brush and a special ingredient sauce they paint over this delicious delicatessen and you end up counting the sticks. How many did you throw in the fire last night?!

Brochette- A skewer or spit on which chunks of meat or fish are barbecued, grilled, or roasted.

 

Kiswahili: miskaki

 

Spanish: pincho

 

Turkish: kebab

 

Brochette: from the word ‘broach’ -

a feminine jewel attached with to needle

with the purpose of decorating one’s coats, blouse or hat.

 

MARAKUJA Kigali by night Brochette filles

Addiction?!

Obsession?!

National dish?!

We can find brochette everywhere in Rwanda, but obviously brochette is not as authentic Rwandan food. So if brochette is not the national dish, what is it exactly?!

Maybe more of those dishes should be found in the restaurants, as they are part of the heritage we carry the one that defines our nature and culture. Various dishes have evolved from the range of basic foods consumed. Ugali (or bugali) is a paste made from maize and water, to form a porridge-like consistency that is eaten throughout East Africa. 

Isombe is made from mashed cassava leaves and served with dried fish.

Matoke is a dish made from baked or steamed plantains. 

Ibihaza is made from pumpkins cut into pieces, mixed with beans and boiled without peeling them. Ground nuts paste Ikinyiga, and Millet flour paste umustima w’uburo both of these pastes are made from boiling water and flour, mixed to a porridge like consistency.

Rwandan food is neither spicy nor hot. People eat simple meals made with locally grown ingredients. The Rwandan diet consists mainly of matt pronko duck, sweet potatoes, beans, corn, peas, millet,ollies and fruits. A traditional breakfast consists of sweet potatoes and porridge, which is a mixture of sorghum, corn and millet, mixed with milk. In urban areas such as Kigali, people usually have bread and tea for breakfast. Most Rwandans like to add lots of milk and sugar to their tea.

Lunch and dinner may consist of boiled beans, bananas, sweet potatoes or cassava. Umutsima (a dish of cassava and corn), isombe (cassava leaves with Eggplant and spinach) and mizuzu (fried plantains) are common dishes. Dinner is the heaviest meal. Between meals, Rwandans often snack on fruits. Tropical fruits such as avocados, bananas, mangos and papaya are abundant in Rwanda. Roadside vendors in urban areas sell roasted corn and barbecued

meat.

Smoke was always calling people together to chat and have a  bite, sing songs and get up and dance around the fire. Today where is smoke there is still the fire and that luckely indicates only one thing –  brochette is happening. Brochette could not be the national dish, but it sure is a purpose, a pretext, a feast on its own, a connector between day and night, past and present, people and stories. People gather randomly around Nyama Choma, pick the warm sizzling bites from the street, from the restaurants and enjoy it near baked potatoes served with chopped onions and the magic pilipili drops. Any restaurant has it on their menu. It’s a "must have". And frankly if any fast-food chain like McDonalds would open in Rwanda, they would have to have it on their menu. People expect it, so they can’t be disappointed. What if you don’t have brochette on the menu?! Well in that case you could either be a Japanese restaurant - and that's a good enough reason - or either be out of your mind. Parties, weddings, concerts, games – it’s all about brochette. And when the night comes it’s all about where you choose to have your juicy meat bite. We all know that meat bites stuck on a stick can be found anywhere in the world, in all kind of combinations and tastes. It is like a global culinary tradition so deeply rooted in time that no one could really tell where it came from. And of course those kind of dilemmas are not at all important. It is just a simple way to cook the meat and could have been "invented" by the man who had just discovered the fire after coming back from hunting. It’s like wondering who was first to boil an egg. But in Rwanda this way of beading meat pieces and vegetables on the stick fitted so well in the lifestyle that it became a contemporary trend people fell natural to follow and enjoy. Talking about brochette in Rwanda is in fact as ordinary as talking about the weather in England. Nothing special at all, but in fact there is everything special into it, as it is in every little thing we do. 

#brochetteCruising

MARAKUJA Kigali by night Brochette filles

We took Serena the Mighty car and cruised around the town. Not once or twice. Many times in search for the best brochette or just for the fun of discovering things and places again and again. One of those days we thought how cool it would be to organize a tour of the brochette around town, as it seems to be the most wanted attraction in Kigali. We hope someone will think of a business like this, for the brochette addicts. We just wrote down a possible itinerary. 

10am-1pm
KICUKIRO
Missed breakfast?! Chez Murokore is always opened for brunch.

The dish is spicy brochette with banana on the side.

This secret stop may not look like much, but the food is so good that everyone who knows this place comes especially for it. Sitting to take in the breath of fresh air and a good satisfying meal that only cost 400frws. Life is sweet.


1pm-3pm
REMERA
Your lunch break. A little freedom and peace of mind to gather
forces for the second half of the day. If you are on this side of
the town and you didn't have enough after last night's karaoke, you can choose Rostie’s and grab a brochette for a
1000frws, either beef or chicken. You can also try the Buffolo, or New Fiesta that serve among many delicious meals, the perfect brochette.


6pm
NYAMIRAMBO
The city becomes alive with all its rumors, flavors and night colors. In the distance there is a roam of ginger tea and brochette. People start to pause and direct to the first open area where there is a man cooking brochette, chapatti, rollex and some warm beverages. A person can buy a filling meal for less than 500frws.

This is what life’s meant to be.


8pm
CAIMAN
Come to Kibagabaga to enjoy the best roast meat in town.

In an wonderful site that admires the glittering night hills you can
choose your brochette and all other Nyama Choma delicatessen.


12pm
LE MUST
Music blasting. The dance floor is filled with people moving to
the beat. At the corner there is a waiter who is going around
with a tray of brochette to cater for appetite of the club hoppers.
One by one people on the dance floor come and buy a brochette
for 1500 frws. This racy meat energizes people to dance
until the break of dawn.


3am
PAPYRUS

As the sunrise starts to awake, lights are deemed to not starlet
their sobering up tired and hungry clients. They are waiting
eagerly for their brochettes. They are on the mission to
recover from their sleepless night.


6am-8am
on the road to BUTARE
As the bus stops for people to go buy milk, there is always a group
of men to run towards the buses’ window with big chops of
brochette and maize. They scream 100Rfrw for a brochette and
100Rfrws for maize. As the bus driver starts the engine the passengers are at a haste to get their juicy brochette.

MAKE IT WITH MARAKUJA

 

Once you get some fresh Capitane fish, you could try something we love. Leave the Capitane fillets to sleep in the cool fridge covered in lemon juice, olive oil and crushed garlic, sprinkle lemon zest, salt and pepper. Time will do the rest for half a day or just over the night. Ready to start the fire? Do that and while it's getting hot slice some oranges and deep them for a little while into melted butter, crushed ginger, salt and pepper all together in a cooking pan. Squash some Maracujas on top and mix everything with fresh coriander and basil leaves. Pick your sticks and start alternating the fish and the fruit slices. The fire should be waiting patiently by this time, just to enhance those aromas in a delicious feast. Enjoy your fish brochette just like that, near the fire, with a fresh cold Maracuja ginger juice to tame your thirst, or… you know better. And that's your MARAKUJA brochette baby! You're ready to rock and roll! 

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